One of the most important things when wanting to sew clothes is the fabric. It plays a vital role in the way the garment will look and how easy it will be to sew it. The fabric is also a key component in every tailor’s armory if they want to fix clients’ clothes professionally. Truth be told, you can never have enough of it, But, the real problem is when you walk into a fabric store and feel you are out of your element, with all these long rows of fabric. For these cases, please allow us to walk you throught it. Let’s start with understanding the different types of fabrics and how to find what you are looking for in a fabric store, be it an online one or not.
Types of Fabrics
These are the most common fabrics you can find at a fabric store:
1. Cottons
Also known as Calicos in the fabric industry, cotton fabrics are the most plentiful at the overwhelming majority of stores. Take note that 100% cotton fabrics should be pre-washed before you do anything with them as they tend to shrink. They are perfect for basic projects, such as quilts, aprons, bags, and items for around the home, and come in many different styles (i.e. baby fabrics, designer fabrics, seasonal fabrics, etc.) and prints, from trendy and bold to more subtle ones.
2. Heavyweights
Fabrics like denim, canvas and duck are thicker than cottons and significantly sturdier. This means that whatever you make with them will hold up longer and withstand everyday use better, which is why they are mostly preferred for outdoor projects. However, you may also use them to make tote handbags, throw pillows, and basically everything else that requires a little weight to them.
3. Plush
Irresistible cute and soft, plush fabrics (i.e. minky and fleece) are perfect for items you want to be snuggly, such as baby items (I.e. pajamas, stuffed animals and blankets. They will cost a bit more than the others and might pill just a tad after you wash them while some will come with a nap. In this cases, just be mindful when you sew them.
4. Flannel
Another great type of fabric for baby stuff given that lots of them have amazing baby prints, among other prints, of course. Flannels are more like cottons rather than fleece. We could say that they are a combination of both as one side is snuggly and soft to the touch, which means that it will probably shrink and pill once it’s washed a couple of times. For things that you don’t want to be bulky, yet still be soft, flannels are ideal options.
5. Jersey Knits
Jersey is a stretchy, soft fabric, pretty much like the one used to make tees and skirts. Because of its stretchy nature, it might be a bit harder to sew. There are many types of knits, each one with its particularities, which we will talk about in one of our next posts. Kindly note that jersey knits usually come in wider sizes than the other fabrics so you may need to buy less of that.
6. Linen
Easy to sew, linen is a fabric that comes in a rich variety of weights and is mostly used in the making of summer clothes. You will mainly find it blended with cotton and it does tend to crease. It might be more expensive than others, though.
7. Wool
Woolen fabrics can be woven or knitted and are often made into posh skirts, coats, suits, and pants. You will most likely have to dry clean it and is fairly expensive.
8. More Refined Fabrics
These include silks, tulles, and satins. You know silk for sure. You know, the slippery, shiny fabric that is used for luxury dresses, blouses, and underwear. For those that don’t know tulle, it is a fabric that looks like netting while satin is silky and soft. They are great for the times you need something fancy sewed for a special occasion (i.e. dress). Although they are more difficult to sew than cotton because they are slippery, you will get the hang of it with some practice.
9. Higher Quality for Home Decor Items
They are often found in large rolls and are significantly pricier than other fabrics. However, their higher quality allows you to sew home décor items, such as pillows and even rugs. When used to make curtains, they also provide light protection. These fabrics generally hold up better.
10. Polyester
It is a light-weight, synthetic woven fabric that won’t crease easily. It is often blended with cotton (called polycotton) and is a cheap option for those that don’t want to spend much on a sewing project.
Fabrics Ideal for Beginners
To begin with, buying cheap fabrics that are easy to sew is a must if you are just being introduced to the sewing world. There is no doubt that you will make mistakes and end up with a completely messed up fabric at some point. Don’t let them hold you back from working on the next project. Here are some handy bits and pieces to consider to prevent this moment from happening.
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Avoid slippery and knitted fabrics, including cotton jersey, rayon, and shiny polyester. Instead, opt for cotton-linen, linen or cotton fabrics that won’t stretch or slip too much when you sew them.
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Start with plain colors. If you fancy print, go with something on the small side. Big patterns, checks, and stripes are more difficult to use as they require utmost precision and lay out that comes with experience.
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Prefer fabrics that are not too heavy to initiate your sewing career. Fabrics such as denim will make your life more difficult because they cannot be easily manipulated. Also, leave ridged or bumpy fabrics for when you feel more confident using the sewing machine.
Buying Fabrics – The Process
The typical width of a fabric is 44-45 inches, although some might be as wide as 60 inches. You will find that information on the end of the bolt, among the type of fabric, pricing, and washing instructions. Once you take notice of that, figure out how much you will need and take the selected fabric/interfacing/trim up to the cutting counter. The smallest cut is about 2.4ft (1/8 of a yard or 28.8 inches or 0.7metres). When you have the fabric cut for you, you are given a ticket that you take up to the register and pay. If you have coupons for the fabric, use them to get a discounted price.
Many people wonder whether they should buy the fabric or the sewing pattern first. Out advice is to buy your pattern before the fabric. That way, you will know what types of fabric you are looking for and how much you need.
Things to Remember when Looking at Fabric:
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Always make sure the particular type of fabric is among the ones recommended for your pattern.
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Check how the fabric drapes (or hangs). Unroll the bolt a bit and have a look. How does it feel? Is it scratchy or does it fit with what you want to make?
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If after having a look at the label for instructions (mentioned above) you realize that the fabric requires high maintenance, choose something else.
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Allow for about 10% shrinkage on washing when you decide how much of fabric you will need, just in case.
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Don’t rush into purchasing the fabric. Once it is cut, there is no turning back. So, take your time.
Before Cutting the Fabric Out
Resist temptation and don’t cut the fabric straight when you get home. Remember that some fabrics shrink so it’s always a good idea to first wash (like you would do with the finished garment) and then iron before you cut them. Although somewhat tedious, it is a critical step to take so that you are sure you don’t waste your time sewing the fabric into something that will eventually be unfitting.
Depending on the fabric’s width, there are different cutting layouts. Make sure you find the sewing pattern with the layout that fits best with selected fabric and the style you are making.
Time to cut out your pattern pieces. Don’t forget to iron them – no steam or high heat. Follow the cutting layout and lay out the pieces accordingly. To avoid confusion, you can first lay out the pieces and then cut them. Pin them to the fabric and give your mind some time to empty. Come back after a few minutes and check what you did. If all feel good, take a deep breath and start cutting!
Finding your Way in a Fabric Store
Basic cotton fabrics will prevail in every fabric store as they are ones with the most demand. So, chances are you will find at least one wall full of cottons arranged by color. Depending on the store you are in, cottons may be arranged in a way that makes it easier for customers to find the perfect color for a quilt they are making. When it comes to prints, you may find everything from large polka dots and other bold prints to smaller ones, such as delicate, pretty miniature flowers. The more solid-colored fabrics are usually at the close end.
Don’t be surprised if you continue to come across more styles of cottons throughout the rest of the store. For example, the store might have a separate baby fabrics section, seasonal prints section and so on.
Fabrics like plush and fleece will probably be on another wall and come at a higher price than cotton. To save some money, google major chains to find printable coupons.
The rest of the store will probably be filled with shelves, each with a different type of fabric (watch out for the signs at the top of each shelf that indicate the type).
Large rolls of the more expensive fabrics (i.e. the ones meant for home décor projects) are usually found in more remote sections of the store. This is where you will also find the wider-in-size jersey knits.
Trims are located in another section. You can buy, for example, lace and ribbon, by the yard, pretty much like the way you buy fabric (take them to the cutting counter and have them cut to the desired length). The same applies to interfacing, sewing supplies, and other things like notions*- they will be at the rest of the store so you can match them with your fabric.
Of course, for online fabric retailers things are different. You just click on the fabric you like, pick the desirable size, and it takes you to your cart to pay. Just make sure you read the description of each fabric well, so you are certain you are making the best purchase.
* notions (aka haberdashery) are every other thing you will need to sew, besides fabric (i.e. elastic, thread, zips, ribbons, buttons, tapes, press studs, etc.).
Now that fabric shopping is made so easy, do you feel ready for it? What type of fabric do you fancy the best? What do you love sewing? Please do share in the comments below!
